All you need to know about the city of
Brzeg
Poland
Sightseeing
Brzeg is an incredible city, home to a remarkably well-preserved castle inspired by Cracovian Wawel, a one-of-a-kind Renaissance town hall, and a chapel that once housed 22 Piast sarcophagi.
Curiosities
Nearly everyone in Brzeg knows the legend once depicted on the mysterious Black Tenement House. It was also here that one of the more brutal crackdowns during the communist era took place. And in Brzeg, you can even... buy a church?
History
The history of Brzeg is inseparably tied to Lower Silesia, and more specifically—to Legnica. The two cities formed the longest-lasting Piast-ruled duchy. Brzeg is also home to one of the oldest sections of the Polish railway network.
CONTENTS
- Is Brzeg Older Than We Think?
- The Birth of the Duchy of Brzeg
- The Smallest Part of a Great Duchy
- A Duchy by Inheritance, a City in Flames
- When Brzeg Became a Renaissance Jewel
- War, Unification, and the Fall of a Medieval Dynasty
- Prussians, Russians, Napoleon — Wars in Brzeg
- Brzeg in the Age of Railways and Germanization
- Brzeg under Bombs and Opression
SIGHTSEEING
The Castle and Museum of Silesian Piasts
Admission: 25 PLN (regular), 18 PLN (reduced)
This is Brzeg’s main attraction—the reason the city has gained widespread recognition. The origins of the castle date back to the 13th century, though it was rebuilt many times over the centuries. The most significant renovation took place in the 16th century, when efforts were made to give it an appearance inspired by Wawel Castle in Kraków. The entrance gate portal makes a striking impression—intricately decorated and adorned with numerous sculptures referencing Polish history. It features busts of the country’s early rulers as well as Silesian dukes.
The castle houses the Museum of the Silesian Piasts, which mainly displays weaponry, including armor, shields, spears, and swords. Visitors can also see the sarcophagi of the Piasts of Brzeg and a gallery of paintings. Another notable exhibition is The Borderlands. Rescued Memories, showcasing objects brought from the former eastern territories of the Second Polish Republic.
The museum can be visited individually, and an audio guide is available for rent. The tour typically takes around 1 to 1.5 hours.
Chapel of Saint Hedwig of Silesia
Admission: Free
Dating back to the 14th century, the Chapel of Saint Hedwig of Silesia is one of Brzeg’s most intriguing historical monuments. It once served as the mausoleum of the Piasts of Brzeg—a total of 22 sarcophagi were discovered here. Unfortunately, the chapel suffered multiple instances of destruction: first by the Prussians in the 18th century, and later during World War II. In the 1960s, it was decided to move the sarcophagi to the adjacent Museum of the Silesian Piasts.
Oder Gate
Admission: Free
The Oder Gate, built in the late 16th century, is a remnant of Brzeg’s former fortification system. It once led to a wooden bridge, now replaced by the modern Piast Bridge.
The gate is adorned with the coats of arms of the Dukes of Brzeg, and at its top, there’s an inscription: Verbum Domini Manet in Aeternum—the family motto of the dukes, which translates to The Word of the Lord endures forever.
Church of Saint Nicholas in Brzeg
Admission: Free
The origins of the Church of Saint Nicholas date back to the 14th century. Initially a Catholic church, it was converted to Lutheranism in the 16th century and remained so until the end of World War II. Unfortunately, the wooden elements of the structure did not survive the war’s destruction.
Today, the church stands on a spacious square and is one of the largest buildings of its kind in all of Silesia.
Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross
Admission: Free
This church was built in the 18th century, not far from the Piast Castle. Constructed by the Jesuits, its purpose was to restore Catholicism in a predominantly Protestant town. The interior is just as impressive as the facade—almost entirely covered in paintings, giving it a truly unique character. Particularly noteworthy are the 18th-century sculptures of Jude Thaddeus and John of Nepomuk.
Market Square and Town Hall
Admission: Free
In the heart of the Market Square stands the historic 16th-century Town Hall, one of the most valuable examples of Renaissance architecture in Poland. It has withstood the test of time, surviving even the turbulent years of World War II. To this day, the building serves as the seat of the city authorities, and regularly hosts cultural events inside. The Town Hall is the central point of the square, which is surrounded by charming townhouses — a mix of modern structures and centuries-old buildings.
Residential-Defensive Tower
Admission: Free
At the intersection of Długa and Jabłkowa streets stands what appears to be an ordinary townhouse—but it hides a fascinating story. Integrated into the structure is a 13th-century tower, once part of the city’s defensive system. Original elements of the tower can still be seen today, including defensive arrow slits. Although it is not an official tourist attraction, it remains an interesting landmark in the city. Currently, the building houses a travel agency.
Church of Saint Nicholas
The Castle and Museum of Silesian Piasts
Interior of the Church of the Holy Cross Elevation
Residential-Defensive Tower
Entrance to the Piast Castle
Oder Gate
Town Hall
Sarcophagi of the Dukes of Brzeg
CURIOSITIES
A Church for Sale
The Church of Saints Peter and Paul in Brzeg is a historic building from the 13th century—the oldest church in the city. Initially owned by the Franciscans, it was secularized during the Lutheran Reformation. The Franciscans left Brzeg, and the church was taken over by the city. Its new function became storage for weapons. Later, it served as a local warehouse, and in the 20th century, it even housed a furniture store.
The building suffered severe damage during the Millennium Flood of 1997, but many historical features remain, including a vault dating back to the year 1500. Archaeological research also uncovered original floors from the 14th and 13th centuries.
In 2003, the city authorities transferred ownership to the Archdiocese of Wrocław for a symbolic 1 złoty, hoping the church would be restored and once again serve the faithful. Despite receiving subsidies, the church authorities decided to sell the building instead. In 2022, it was put on the market for 2.5 million złoty.
The Most Brutal Protest of Communist Poland
In communist Poland, numerous clashes occurred between the authorities and the Church. One particularly sensitive moment came in 1966, during preparations for the celebration of the 1000th anniversary of the founding of the Polish state. The communist authorities permitted a secular celebration but tried to prevent the religious one. For many, this was unthinkable, as it was, after all, the anniversary of receiving baptism. Particularly stubborn was the parish priest of Brzeg, Father Kazimierz Makarski.
In an attempt to break his resistance, the communists planned to seize the building where priests lived and catechism classes were held. They offered to abandon these plans if the Church agreed to cancel the millennium celebrations. Father Makarski, of course, refused—and so the authorities began bringing in the militia to take the building by force.
In response, the residents of Brzeg took to the streets. What followed was a real battle with ZOMO units that engulfed the entire town and lasted until the evening. Barricades were built, and officers were pelted with stones and various objects. Cobblestones were torn from the ground to defend against police batons. ZOMO retaliated by pulling people from the crowd and beating them publicly and brutally. Many were later sentenced as a result of these events. Father Makarski was fined a considerable amount, but he managed to pay it off within a week with the help of the local residents.
The entire incident went down in history as the Brzeg Events and is considered the most brutal pacification operation in Poland between 1956 and 1968.
The Monument That Drank with the Youth
One of Brzeg’s more unconventional attractions is the monument of the Drinking Girl. The original sculpture was installed in the city as early as 1910, created by a German artist who also worked in Austria, Germany, and Italy. The monument became one of Brzeg’s symbols, and among the youth of the time, it became a tradition to pour alcohol into the bowl held by the girl.
Unfortunately, after World War II, the statue disappeared. It was never recovered, but thanks to a city-led initiative, the beloved figure was recreated in 2023. Today, it can be admired in Central Park, not far from the city center.
The Legend of the Black Tenement House
Until recently, one of Brzeg’s most distinctive buildings was the Black Tenement House. Its facade featured a faded image depicting a remarkable story.
It was the year 1704, and at that time, the building housed a wine tavern where a young woman named Zuzanna worked. Her employer often praised her boldly, claiming she had more courage than many men. Among the guests one evening was an executioner, who mockingly asked if she dared to fetch a pair of gloves he had left inside the gallows—a place that was locked, deserted, and feared after dark. Without hesitation, Zuzanna accepted the challenge, took the key, and set off into the night—without even a lantern.
When she arrived, she spotted a saddled horse and an open door, but despite her fear, she entered, retrieved the gloves, mounted the horse, and galloped back to town.
What she didn’t know was that the gallows served as a secret hideout for local bandits. Hearing the sound of hooves, they assumed someone was stealing their horse and gave chase. Zuzanna, however, managed to ride through the city gate just before it closed and returned safely to the tavern. After handing over the gloves and receiving her reward, people discovered valuables in the horse’s saddle—spoils from a recent robbery. Since no owner could be identified, the entire treasure was awarded to Zuzanna.
A few days later, several men arrived at the tavern—the bandits, trying to reclaim their stolen goods. Pretending to be customers, they ordered a bottle of wine. When Zuzanna went down to the cellar, they followed her. But she quickly blew out her candle, hid, and managed to lock them in. She then called for help. The city guards captured the criminals, who were later sentenced to death.
Although the Black Tenement House has not survived the test of time, the legend of Zuzanna lives on in the memories of the townspeople.
Where the Ceiling Becomes the Sky
Brzeg is also connected to another fascinating figure—Johann Kuben. He was an 18th-century artist, the most outstanding Silesian representative of quadratura painting, who played a key role in popularizing this style throughout the region. Quadratura is a unique technique of decorating the interiors of sacred buildings in a three-dimensional manner, designed to create the illusion of expanded space. Though Johann worked in various Silesian cities, he chose to tie his fate to Brzeg for a remarkable 17 years. During that time, he adorned, among other works, the altar of the Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross.
Site of the Former Black Tenement House (second building from the right)
St. Peter and Paul Church
Memorial Plaque Commemorating the Events in Brzeg
HISTORY
Is Brzeg Older Than We Think?
The origin of the town’s name may not be as straightforward as it seems. Brzeg, first mentioned in a Latin document from 1250, appeared under the name Alta ripa, which can be translated as “high bank.” Both the Latin and Polish names reference the town’s location on the riverbank.
There is a theory suggesting that Brzeg is much older than commonly believed. Supporters of this hypothesis point to a map created by the Greek scholar Claudius Ptolemy. However, this map contains numerous errors and inaccuracies, making it difficult to pinpoint the exact locations of the settlements it depicts. Today, it is generally accepted that the name Budorigum, found on the map, more likely refers to the area of present-day Wrocław.
The Birth of the Duchy of Brzeg
Brzeg is one of the oldest towns in Silesia. It received its first municipal privileges as early as 1248, during the period of Poland’s feudal fragmentation. This was a time when individual lands were ruled by increasingly independent dukes.
In the early 13th century, Brzeg belonged to the Duchy of Wrocław. It wasn’t until 1311 that the Duchy of Brzeg was formed, with Brzeg as its capital. This was a result of the reign of Henry III the Wasteful, who, in his attempt to pursue an ambitious foreign policy, led the duchy into financial crisis. Faced with mounting problems, the local nobility forced him to share power with his brothers. As a result of this division, Henry became the first Duke of Brzeg, while his brothers took control of Wrocław and Legnica.
The Smallest Part of a Great Duchy
Brzeg was the smallest and poorest part of the former Duchy of Wrocław. The difficult political situation of Duke Henry forced him, in 1329, to pay hereditary homage to John of Luxembourg—King of Bohemia, Emperor of Germany, and one of the most powerful rulers of medieval Europe. This meant that the duke’s successors would also fall under Czech influence. It was not an isolated case, as during this period, all Silesian Piasts submitted to John of Luxembourg.
In the mid-14th century, the town began to develop rapidly. The ducal castle was expanded, the town hall was rebuilt, and St. Nicholas Church was renovated. In 1390, the first archaeological research was even conducted on the site of the former castellany stronghold in Ryczyn.
A Duchy by Inheritance, a City in Flames
Despite the division of the state by Henry III the Wasteful, Brzeg remained closely tied to Legnica. His brother, who took power in Legnica, turned out to be an even worse ruler and was quickly overthrown. From 1338 onward, the sons of Henry ruled both in Brzeg and Legnica.
The situation changed in 1419, when Wenceslaus II of Legnica took the throne. However, he had been trained for the clergy and focused more on his spiritual calling than on governance. As a result, he immediately handed the duchy over to his cousin from Brzeg—Louis II. Thus, the Duchy of Legnica-Brzeg was formed.
Unfortunately, the 15th century was not kind to Brzeg. The city was burned during the Hussite Wars, struck by an earthquake in 1443 that caused widespread destruction, and in 1473, a drought led to famine and severe water shortages. These events significantly weakened the town’s economic position.
When Brzeg Became a Renaissance Jewel
The city’s fate took a turn with the rise to power of Frederick II. Faced with the growing Turkish threat, he began a major expansion of Brzeg’s fortifications—reinforcing the defensive walls and renovating the castle. He also succeeded in expanding the duchy’s territory by purchasing land to the south.
One of Frederick II’s most impactful decisions was his conversion to Protestantism. As a result, the city’s oldest Catholic church was demolished, along with the Dominican monastery and church. After his death, the duchy was once again divided—George II took control of Brzeg, while his brother ruled in Legnica.
George II matched his father’s achievements in many respects. It was during his reign that the castle’s renovation was completed, giving it its current Renaissance form. The town hall was also transformed, acquiring its distinctive appearance. George II further elevated Brzeg’s stature by founding the Piast Gymnasium, modeled after a similar institution in Wrocław, making the city one of the leading educational centers in Silesia.
In the 16th century, Brzeg also flourished as a major trade hub. Large cattle markets were held here, attracting livestock from the far reaches of the Polish–Lithuanian Commonwealth, which were then sold to German markets.
War, Unification, and the Fall of a Medieval Dynasty
For a brief moment, the Duchies of Brzeg and Legnica were reunited after the childless death of the Duke of Legnica. However, in 1602 they were once again divided. The early 17th century also marked the beginning of the Thirty Years’ War—one of the largest military conflicts in Europe, in which Protestants and Catholics fought for dominance.
Brzeg, like the rest of Silesia, remained a fiefdom of the Czech Crown, which was ruled by the Austrian Habsburgs—leaders of the Catholic camp. This led to attacks by Protestant forces on the Silesian duchies. In 1642, Brzeg was besieged by the Swedes, but thanks to earlier fortification upgrades, the city managed to defend itself.
The final historical unification of the Duchies of Brzeg and Legnica occurred in 1664, following the deaths of two of the three Piast brothers, who left no heirs. Power passed to Christian of Legnica, and later to his only son, George William of Legnica. Groomed from childhood to be a ruler, he stood out for his education and ability. Tragically, he died unexpectedly at the age of just 15 in 1675. He was the last Piast duke in history and left no successors.
Prussians, Russians, Napoleon — Wars in Brzeg
The Habsburgs took direct control of the duchy, initiating a period of intense re-Catholicization. Jesuits and Capuchins were brought to Brzeg, where they built new churches, including the Church of the Exaltation of the Holy Cross.
However, Brzeg did not remain under Austrian control for long. In the 18th century, a series of wars broke out between the Habsburg Monarchy and the rising power of Prussia—a period known in history as the Silesian Wars. During the conflict, in 1741, Prussian forces bombarded Brzeg, partially destroying the Piast Castle. After the war, the city became part of the Kingdom of Prussia. Yet peace was still out of reach—just 20 years later, Brzeg was shelled again, this time by Russian troops during the Seven Years’ War.
Brzeg’s role as a strategic fortress ultimately came to an end during the Napoleonic Wars. In 1807, after the city was seized by Bavarian troops allied with Napoleon, the demolition of the city walls was ordered. Even after Napoleon’s defeat, the fortifications were never rebuilt — instead, parks and promenades took their place.
Brzeg in the Age of Railways and Germanization
Despite being under Prussian rule, the city gained several significant improvements. As early as 1748, the first lock on the Oder River was constructed. In 1819, one of the first public savings banks in Silesia was established, and in 1842, a railway line connecting Brzeg with Wrocław was completed—the oldest railway segment on Polish soil. In the following years, the line was extended further into Upper Silesia.
Brzeg experienced dynamic growth in the second half of the 19th century. Over the course of a few decades, the city’s population tripled, eventually leading to Brzeg being designated as a separate administrative unit.
It is also worth noting the situation of Poles in Brzeg. During the era of the Duchy of Brzeg, the Polish language remained dominant despite the German majority in Lower Silesia. Polish primers were still being published at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries, and in 1859 the Brzeg Cantional — a collection of religious hymns in Polish—was released. However, Prussian authorities systematically implemented a policy of Germanization, which was accompanied by a growing wave of German nationalism.
Brzeg under Bombs and Oppression
World War I significantly worsened Brzeg’s economic situation. Even after the war ended, the city never regained its former prosperity. The loss of parts of Upper Silesia to the newly reborn Poland and newly drawn borders that hindered trade led to rising unemployment and poverty. During the 1930s, Nazi ideology was systematically introduced, and public support for the regime was often forced.
The outbreak of World War II only deepened the hardships. However, the greatest destruction came at the very end of the war. Advancing Soviet troops nearly leveled Brzeg—around 70% of the city was reduced to rubble. After the war, the city was repopulated in part by Poles displaced from the Eastern Borderlands.
Reconstruction began in the 1960s. Many historic buildings were restored, and some former factories resumed operations. This period is also marked by a darker episode — the so-called Brzeg pacification, a brutal clash between communist authorities and local citizens.
After the fall of communism, Brzeg slowly regained its historical, Piast identity. Today, it is a vibrant cultural center boasting unique heritage sites and a growing tourism offer.
Oko na Świat © Artur Gołębiowski